Stuff: Compulsive hoarding and the meaning of things

Commune day 3- Fondazione Prada

The Porcelain Room:

"The Porcelain Room" was one of the most memorable exhibitions to me from the whole commune trip as it was exhibited in such an immersive way. The room featured examples of porcelain made from the Ming dynasty throughout the 16th-19th century for different markets, religions and social groups. The exhibition was divided into 3 distinct sections, with the intimate all golden space being the main showstopper.  

"First Orders"- a term usually attributed to the first commissions of Chinese porcelains by the Portuguese after their arrival China, these are extremely rare with only 150 having survived to the present day, however we were able to see 45 examples throughout the exhibition. These included a small group of rare examples made for the Islamic market as well. 

Even though the golden room was surreal, my favorite part of the exhibition was the second part that features a wide selection of daily use objects represented as natural and surreal forms to imitate animals, fruits and vegetables. Originally created around the 1760's for table sets and home decor for well to do households. What originally attracted me to the displays was the vibrant color schemes, consisting of reds, greens, yellows all with intricate details. I love the surreal nature of them, I'm not really basing this research off the historical themes, but more of how people were able to add detail and history and therefore value to a material such as porcelain. 

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Spirited Away

I shop, Therefore I am: Compulsive buying and the search for self

Justin Bettman

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 The photo above is part of his ongoing "Set in the street" photo series where he creates elaborate sets out of materials sourced in skips and unwanted parts found on the street. After building the colorful and intricate sets, Bettman would leave the sets up on the street, allowing passerby to shoot their own photos and share it using the hashtag: #setinthestreet

I find there's two different components I really like about Bettman's work:

1. The creative direction behind the sets, his signature use of pastel colors and patterns and styling choices that echo the vintage 50's aesthetic remind me of director Wes Anderson's movies. The sets are polished and all the elements are coherent, ultimately creating a picturesque environment. Even though the models are the main focal point, I find the sets so well put together that I could crop out a specific element and that alone could become a still life photo.

2. What makes Bettman's photo series distinct is how his sets interact with the environment it's in. He encourages the community to interact with the set instead of putting a "Do not Touch" sign around it and creating a barrier/ boundary. Additionally, on his website, he doesn't only post the final photo of the model in the set; he would also include a photo with a larger crop showing the environment the set is based in. This juxtaposition, such as a picturesque 50's styled living room against modern day busy ties square is eye-catching and almost creates a collaged effect. 

Tipping Point, Jose Luis Torres

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Created as a reflection of our society's toxic habits as consumers, Luis Fernandez creates a juxtaposition between the fun connotations behind the brightly colored toys and the sombre reality of how much unnecessary Stuff we own and continue buying. 

The use of its oversized scale adds to the sense of overwhelming-ness, the explosion of bright colors compared to the otherwise monochromatic modern scene almost assaults passerbys. I also found the use of plastic appropriate as it can be interpreted as a reflection of our reckless consumption of plastic as well. 

Little Britain

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When thinking about creating distinct characters and developing narratives for a potential shoot, I found myself rewatching episodes of Little Britain to see how Matt Lucas and David Williams bring vivid, convincing and relatable characters to life through styling and studying their behavior. 

The photographer's gallery - Anton Kusters

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Anton Kuster's "The blue skies project" was one of the first pieces that welcomed me in The Photographer's Gallery. 

Through this project, it turns out that the collection of 1,078 polaroid photos, all depicting a different blue sky taken at the last known location of every former Nazi-run concentration and extermination camp in Europe before and during WWII. 

The photos are blind stamped with the number of known victims at the site along with its GPS coordinates. I feel that the significant context behind the installation almost juxtaposes the calm photos of the clouds, however with the way it's displayed through its scale and use of multiples, the audience is encouraged to study each image and to experience sense of overwhelming commemoration of the past from this abstract piece. 

The photographer's gallery - Mark Neville

The photographer's gallery - Mark Neville

I find myself identifying my approach to my work to Mark Neville through how he integrates both art and documentary practices and the social function of creating community-based projects. 

Neville began his project back in 2016 on the day Britain voted to leave the European Union. Based in Guingamp, Brittany (also knows as little Britain), he produced portraits over a three year period capturing the local football team, cultural Fêtes, the farming community and smaller demographics within Guingamp. Neville blends candid and posed photos, and manages to document interesting subjects. One of my favorite things about his photo series was the use of color and compositions of the photos, even in the candid photographs.

The Photographer's gallery- Svoboda

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Prior to reading the plaques introducing Jan Svoboda, I've never heard of him before, and his work was a bit too minimalistic and confusing to me. I wasn't able to understand nor appreciate the significance behind his work or his process as I just didn't know it. 

However, as I continued walking around the exhibition, I noticed how svoboda places emphasis around themes of deconstruction, experimenting with presentation and medium.  

In comparison to the other exhibitions I saw, I noticed Svoboda's non-orthodox use of edit, such as displaying the reverse side of images, documenting piles of photos, and mounting photographs on glass to create a floating effect on the wall. Svoboda's work ultimately challenged my preconceived impressions of what my final outcomes could be, I find myself thinking of a wider range of ways to present my work. 

In the photo above (and the video below) is my favorite piece of the exhibition. Named Tables (1970), the photo series features photos of the same oval wooden table but captured from all angles in various lighting conditions. By displaying the photos on glass, the viewers are welcomed to examine all aspects of each photo, mirroring the approach Svoboda took. Additionally, he also added writing to some of the photos, adding a further significance to the otherwise banal photos. 

Andy Warhol Screen Test 3 Edie Sedgwick

Andy Warhol Screen Test 3 Edie Sedgwick

Andy warhol's nearly 500 screen tests consist of short silent black and white film portraits that featured friends, celebrities and factory visitors gazing at the camera at shoulder length angle. 

The films were only 2.5 minutes long, but were edited into slow-motion moving images. 

When studying these film reels, I find myself going back to the self, portrait and body politics' focus on "the gaze".As the subjects are forced to face the camera front on, with no props, posing, it's quite an intense and vulnerable position to be in. I also find the tests to be intimate, the idea of looking into someone's eyes for 2.5 minutes is almost unrealistic, especially in an age of technological advancement, such a personal exchange is foreign and intimidating. The subjects weren't allowed to talk or move, and were forced to sit.

Additionally, the organic aura of the subject captured by the medium of film distinguishes itself to a painting or a still image.

(https://revolverwarholgallery.com/warhols-screen-tests/)

Robbie Augspurger

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Augspurger's work is an interesting mix of humor and nostalgia as most of his works are heavily inspired by the signature 90's aesthetic. His shoots originated from an accidental test shoot of his roommate to test a set of 80's Photogenic FlashMaster lights. His roommate, wearing a 3 piece tweed suit reminded Auspurger of his old family photos, and he then decided to tone the images to match rest of the aesthetic. 

"I still remember when companies like Olan Mills would set up their lights in the basement of the church and hit you with their flash"

I like how he stays away from professional models in his work, he prefers to photograph friends who don't shy away from being goofy. Another aspect I really like is how he creates stories for his subjects, and asks them to take on a new persona and he would title the image with the name of the make-believe character. 

“I’ll tell my friend, ‘Okay, you are Bud Kaiser and you work at Consolidated Affiliates and you are the company manger and your mom sent you home with that casserole after dinner so you have indigestion today and you’re having some trouble with the kids at school, but you still have to get the paperwork in and still have to do the company photo shoot and I am your photographer.’

cowgirls, Fräulein Magazine -Robbie Augspurger

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Initial notes:

-nice color scheme

-Pay attention to what camera you use for capturing final outcomes

Camper "class of S/S 2018" campaign

Camper Campaign

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-Inspired by dorky 90's school portraits, styling choices are ultimately influenced by the colorscheme and style of the shoe.

-Presented as diptychs and through a fashion film, the audience can see the direct correlation between the portrait and photo of the shoe. 

Comme Des Garçons 1999

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-faded green color scheme with contrasting hints of reds, yellow and oranges 

-Bright pink dress presents itself as the focal point against the green, especially as it's closer to the camera, and takes up 1/3 of the photo composition.

-Candid posing and composition shows the classic archetype of a typical family life

The great Indoors, Martin Parr

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Finding a way to communicate a specific scenario/ experience to my audience and encouraging them to find the significance in a garment that otherwise means nothing to them has been one of the challenges I find myself circling back to throughout my creative process. 

As a result of limited library access, I've resulted to researching and finding interesting material from social media, specifically instagram archive pages. In "The Great Indoors", Parr created an artificial beach environment set inside The seaside resort of New Brighton. Parr manages to convey the sense of a beach getaway in a confined space, and communicates a sense of community to the viewer as well. With the use/ imagery of a beach, props and models, the sense of being outside in the summer heat along with invoking past memories is cleanly executed.

Nadia lee Cohen Hunger magazine

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This was one of my favorite photos from Nadia lee Cohen's portrait series, from the positioning of the subject, to the 

The Brothers Grimsby Movie trailer

Casuals: The last subculture in English Football

@Delilahrg

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Some photos of a die hard man city fan I found on social media...

"This Portuguese guy has the world's largest collection of football scarves"

Half & Half Scarves

Lois Saunders

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Finding Lois' work on depop, Lois reworks football scarves into both mens and women tops, skirts and shorts. 

How its made- football scarf

Ray Materson

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I found Ray Materson's work through Adbusters.org, and it caught my eye because it was one of the few pieces that weren't graphic works, but Materson still manages to very clearly communicate the underlying themes of power and class and his own struggle battling with a serious drug problem through his work. Additionally, one of the most fascinating things I found about his work was the medium he worked with. He actually stitched his collection of small tapestries out of threads from socks, reflecting back to when he was incarcerated for 15 years, and socks were the only fabric he had access to.

Onward (2020)

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In the disney movie "Onward", brothers and 

Source Unknown, found on Instagram @oneofa__kind

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Geoff Johnson

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I came upon photographer Geoff Johnson's work as I was becoming more familiar with compulsive Hoarding and its often unspoken origins and impacts. 

Johnson's photoseries features children in his childhood home where he lived with his mother in, who was a compulsive hoarder. 

The Porcelain Room

Spotify Album art

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I have a habit of loudly listening to music while I work, and I had added this song by Vince Staples to my playlist before knowing it was part of a movie soundtrack. After watching the movie "Queen & Slim", I appreciated the album art even more. The rough cutout styled photos all symbolism a significant scene throughout the movie, and the journey the audience experiences alongside the characters forces us to piece together the most memorable parts all over again. Almost like an inside joke, I felt special that I know context behind the song in the movie. I like the simple approach taken, the contrast between the vivid imagery against the solid black background, and the simple use of text as well. All the elements even though separate, all integrate nicely together, and manage to convey the movie's narrative for the audience. 

transitional Objects & Transitional Phenomena, D.W Winnicott

Happy Victims, Kyoichi Tsuzuki

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One of the most inspirational projects behind my project is Japanese photographer Kyoichi Tsuzuki's, "Happy Victims" series. Featuring a microcosm of people surrounded by their vast collection of designer clothes. 

"Tsuzuki comprehensively illustrates, the ones who buy the fashion brands are neither strikingly attractive nor occupy handsome dwellings."

From Anna Sui to Margiela, there's a certain surreal-ness seen through the maze like environment created once all the garments are displayed as Tsuzuki follows designer-obsessed fashion victims. The unchoreographed posing of the subjects along with the different rooms and clothes give them all a distinct character along while displaying how passionate these fashion collectors are towards their brand. Additionally, I also liked the interesting composition of his photos, from how he chooses to display the collection to how he positions the subject/ subjects.

The photos ultimately form a book, each image labelled with a designer and a paragraph about the anonymous collector, their occupation, where they live, and how they became engrossed with designer labels. 

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Tracy Emin- My Bed, 1998

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What originally started off as a mess in her bed as a result of a bedridden bender following a bad breakup, Emin decided the state of her bed as a work of art. Surrounded by crumpled tissues, period-stained clothing, cigarettes, empty vodka bottles, a pregnancy test, lubricant, and condoms, there's a sense of routine and vulnerability shown through each object and its connotations in society. 

Tate Liverpool curator Darren Pic described the work as a "form of assemblage art" that "almost resembles a crime scene"

One of my favorite aspects of the piece is the rawness of it, it's blunt in the way it portrays Emin, and it exposes the less mentioned, ugly side of dealing with a breakup. 

 

No Man's Land, Christian Boltanski

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"I was a little disappointed, because the clothes don't smell."

"In my work there have always been a lot of photos of people, heartbeats of people- for me the clothing are people."

"No man's land" is a piece aimed to communicate themes surrounding life and death. Every article of clothing symbolized one person, estimated at around 6,000 people with the crane acting as a metaphoric hand of God, and as the clothes are lifted, it symbolizes the carrying the "souls" of those who inhabited the clothes to a higher realm.

"In this work, the mountain was an eternal afterlife of sorts, where every individual rests after death."

 

The Photographer's Gallery - Mohamed Bourouissa

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This exhibition by Algerian photographer Mohamed Bourouissa explores themes of community and the tensions between different social milieus and representations of them.

Through a mix of photos, film and sculpture, the audience are presented with a diverse representation of youth living on the outskirts of Paris in the first two photographic series, "Nous Sommes "Halles"" (2003-2005) and "Périphérique" (2005-2008). Whereas in the series, "Shoplifters" (2014-2015), Bourouissa questions the methods of social control and the presence of the inequality in power. 

I see myself identifying with the themes Bourouissa such as how he features marginalized communities and how he perceived in the media and pop culture. He does this by adapting a mix of visual styles which I also want to experiment with as I develop ideas for my final outcome.

The Photographer's Gallery - Mohamed Bourouissa

The Photographer's Gallery - Mohamed Bourouissa

Tate Modern- Atul Dodiya

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Initial Notes:

-Really interesting way of displaying works, the scale and diverse media used 

-Attracts foot traffic, and the detail encourages them to further explore

-Interesting use of traditional framed photographs

 

The Photographer's gallery- Jan Svoboda

Rick Owens, Annie Leibovitz (2002)

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Stumbled upon this naturally captivating photo of Rick Owens and Annie Leibovitz. Maybe I can experiment with film and even showing the film in the background as I photograph portraits... I find it refreshing how the often intimate relationship and process shared between the photographer and the model is being exposed and shown to the viewer as well, and it offers an additional perspective of the model.

Dailypaper/ Appelsapx Tennis capsule campaign

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Initial notes:

-its intentional limited color scheme further emphasizes its underlying tennis theme throughout the photo series. 

-Each photo creates a strong identity

-simple props are used, but the same set/ background is used to ensure coherency.

Balenciaga spring/summer 2018 Men's campaign

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Initial notes:

-Recreated awkward family photos reminiscent of the ones taken in American malls in the late 80's/early 90's.

-Faded colorscheme

-Interesting casting choices as they featured real families. Adds a sense of authenticity, and it's refreshing to see a different campaign instead of models in glamorous locations.

-shot by Robbie Augspurger

-styling choices influenced by presence of norm core in the 90's?

Nacho Alegre

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How do you make the everyday unique? In a world full of constant stimuli, how do you make work that still entices and makes the viewer curious?

These are two questions I find myself thinking about a lot, as I ultimately want to communicate the significance behind seemingly cheap garments to an audience. 

I really like Alegre's refreshing and simple take on presenting everyday items through the use of lighting, materials and scale. 

Nacho Alegre, Apartamento Magazine spread

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I've never really taken the time to read interior design magazines as I'm reminded of IKEA catalogues, and most of the time they feature pristine, minimalistic houses that bore me. However, Apartmento magazine, co-directed by Nacho Alegre and Omar Sosa features a range of content, from featuring individual houses, to set design photographs to the home owners in their candid, natural environments. A sense of coziness and personality is created throughout the whole magazine, and the range of content stops the reader from being bored and remains constantly surprised. 

The choice to keep objects and mess in the frame preserves the owner's identity and style. Additionally, they tend to feature homes of other creatives, such as photographers, artists, and musicians.

"The idea is about how people live in their homes and being able to tell their amazing stories. It's more like a diary."

 

Future Beach- Nadia Lee Cohen x GCDS for Paper Magazine

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 Similar to Martin Parr's, "The Great Outdoors", Nadia Lee Cohen's signature imaginative style paired with cinematic props and the use of special effect makeup also create a strong narrative based around the theme of a futuristic beach vacation. 

Elsa Schiaparelli, Salvador Dali

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As I'm brainstorming about more surreal and creative ways to display and photograph my garment other than using models (due to isolation reasons). I found myself finding inspiration though pop art, and how fashion designers have integrated pop art into their designs, such as Elsa Schiaparelli's lobster dress. From this Im thinking of how to incorporate still-life objects as my models (at least as an experimental outcome)

Spotify Album art

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As mentioned previously, I was on my usual search for new music, and found this single by Kyle Dion. The disproportional, exaggerated, playful editing style reminded me of childhood drawings that would capture a Child's imagination and a certain disregard for the precise.

@Eugeneboynoble

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Eugene's work was initially recommended to me by my friend Jasmine during our crit sessions. Created as an ode to his love for the Football culture in England as his MA Final project for The Royal College of Art under the school of Communication, Eugene's project bases itself around working class culture.

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Meat- "Keep It Hidden (Free Me)"- Robbie Augspurger

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This music video features the hypnotic motion of a meat grinder throughout the length of the video. The meat grinder's cyclic movements seem to echo the behaviors of a clock, as it continues churning out meat, the song (heavily inspired by the signature sound of 80's electronic synth) is played. I quite like how even though the overall creative direction behind the music video is rather simple, as the viewer I don't find myself losing interest. 

Lorenzo Vitturi

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Omnipresence- Surgery, Orlan (1993)

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Adbusters.org

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Adam Curtis

"La Jettee"- Chris Markers

"La Jettee"- Chris Markers